4 February 2008 - Heading towards the Drake again
Well, another day another trip. A ship full of new guests, new faces to learn, new names to remember. A strangely unmixed group, with mainly Dutch and German guests, just the odd Argentinian, Irish or Swiss in there. We've never had such a group before, and I don't know what that will be like. Very much the usual mix of sailors and nature lovers though, and a good mix in ages.
The Beagle is treating us kindly today, a lot of sunshine earlier on, now a little more grey, a little wind, but it's dry. People have been out on deck all day, enjoying the scenery and joining in with the sail training. Some had their first experience climbing up the mast. I am now suffering from the usual drowsiness as a result of the seasickness tablets, and I have a little trouble keeping my eyes open. I guess I'll have an early night. For one reason or another I had very little sleep while we were ashore anyway, that might have something to do with that too.
It was a good time ashore. Time to prepare for this trip, to call the family and write emails, and to wander round the streets a little. I visited my favourite Ushuaia bookshop and bought Frederic Cook's book on the Belgian expedition of De Gerlache. Nice reading for the trip. And we had icecream at Gadget, of course. We also had a nice party at Javier's, to say goodbye to the old crew. Four people have left the ship for a while, and I will miss them. We do have new crew, of course.
The forecasts say we are heading straight for a storm, with wind speeds somewhere between 40 and 60 knots. The crew have been working hard today to make everything seafast, we've been trying to tell the guests to do the same. This will be a very different crossing from the last one.
Well, I've decided to try and get to understand the ship a little better this trip, to learn just a little more about sailing. I'll see how far I'll get, but it might be fun. I helped out a little with the lines today, and got it right at the third try.... I will persevere!
6 February 2008 - Back Again.
Well, the start to the trip was definitely different. The storm hit the ship badly, or maybe not so much the ship but the people on board. I hear most people were out of sight all of yesterday. I must say I hear, because I spent all day in my bunk too. It's been a long time since that has happened. I had no appetite and didn't want to do anything, I just slept. Or tried to sleep. My bunk is ... on the ship, which means that before you go to sleep you always have to work out where to put your pillow. If you're not careful your head can be lower than the rest of your body all night, and you end up with a headache. When the ship is moving a lot, as it did yesterday, you get tossed from one side to the other anyway, so you have to climb up to where your pillow is on a regular basis, or you end up all crumpled up near the base of the bed. Either way, you wake up. Then there is the regular sound of utensils and glasses crashing in the galley or the lounge, as well.
Just before the storm hit, round about 8 p.m. on the 4th, we did get a little present. Quite a big group of Dusky dolphins surrounded the ship and stayed with us for quite a while. They kept coming very close, and then they started jumping and some came all the way out of the water. I had seem Dusky dolphins before, but never that many, that close and doing that many tricks. I blame the captain. The dolphins were around, and then Eric decide to give three bells to give the trainees some information. Straight after that we got the dolphin show. Shortly after that the winds began to blow, and then people still enjoyed it very much. It was a beautiful sight to see the waves, the light on the sea and the land, and the dolphins turning up time after time. That was the perfect ending to a perfect day on the Beagle.
No news on yesterday then, but today looks nice again. It's a little grey at the moment, the ship is moving, but not too much. You can't relax completely, but you don't need to hold on all the time. We've even started the lectures now... Tomorrow we will give the IAATO-lecture, to present the guidelines for going ashore, and then, hopefully, day after tomorrow, we can enjoy the beauty of Aitcho.
On a personal note, I worked out a while ago that today is our 12.5 year anniversary together. One of those useless little facts that will stay with me once I've worked them out. Only Lex let out to the cook, and that spells trouble... It is funny thinking back to the time we first met, some similarities to today, but many differences. Away from home, spending a lot of time in the open air, being surrounded by an international company, being busy working away from our usual jobs, the last month of summer. But 52 people as opposed to 30,000, grey and chilly as opposed to a 14 day heatwave. I don't think that in the summer of 1995 I could have imagined myself doing this kind of work in this environment. I'm happy to be here though.
Later the same day
Well, it's an unusual day. At the end of December I gave a lecture on albatross to a youth nature group in the Netherlands. I really enjoyed it and had a great time. When I walked out of the building into the darkness I tripped over a shin high little pole. It hurt, and I thought it was a big scratch. It seemed to be healing, but it got gradually worse over the last week. Today I asked the doctor to have a look at it and he didn't look very happy. He cleaned it all up and put a big bandage over it. It was pretty painful, he did warn me, and it was. I got Lex to hold me for a few minutes, which wasn't easy. ("But there are albatrosses outside".) It hurts more now, but I can still walk. Next time I should have it seen to earlier, the doctor tells me the wound really needed stitches. Wonder what it will end up looking like. The things I do for albatross.
I did have a good lunch, the sun is shining again after some rain, and I see more and more people come out on deck. Our 12.5 years is up on the board near the Galley, so people come up to me to shake my hand. And I've just been practicing my arithmetic. How will the schedule for the next trip work out if we stay on Argentinian time and don't put back the clock. The life of an expedition leader is not an easy one. Well, time to write the list of what to tell the trainees this evening. It's a long list....
The day also is strange because we usually have the watch system up and running by this time. It was cancelled when the storm hit though, and it doesn't really seem to get started again. So instead of having half the people asleep in their bunks or in the deckhouse, while a small group walks about purposefully because they are on watch, we now have a lot of people wandering about aimlessly, watching the sea or trying to think of something to do. We've provided two lectures today, a film and will start out vacuuming in the evening. And maybe the watches will really take effect again, even if it is only for about a day.
7 February - Rules and Regulations
I'm off the tablets, and I seem to be doing okay. Thought I would try it for a change, just this one day to go, so not that much can go wrong. Well, I had to do a couple of lectures, but apart from that. It's been a good day really, we've been sailing for much of the afternoon, making good speed and heading in the right direction. We'll reach Aitcho half a day early, which sounds good to me. And I'm sure a lot of guests will be perfectly happy, some are still in their cabins.
We did our bit for science again last night, doing some work for the "Aliens in Antarctica" project. All the guests were asked to fill out forms on where they have been over the last year or so, while some six of them had their outdoor gear vacuumed, we used a vacuumcleaner to collect any propagules they might be carrying into the Antarctic that might take root at some point. It's an interesting project and I hope our work helps. It's fun to do anyway.
The lectures today were all about the IAATO regulations and practical tips for landings. Always a lot of information, too much for people to take in all at once. I try to tell it quickly and to liven it up a little but that is difficult. It isn't the most interesting material. And we have to force people to sit through it, they have to attend if they want to go ashore.
This also seems a long day because we put the clock back an hour last night. It's just after 6 p.m., but my stomach tells me it's 7.
We have our crew meetings in the wheelhouse, the place where the real work of navigating and steering the ship is done. That means you try to squeeze about 16 people onto 6 square meters. It's one way to get close. The other way really is the moving ship. I've developed the saying "rough weather brings you closer together" and that is true. People fall over and into each other all the time. Last night a man fell over backwards and hit my newly bandaged shinbone, tearing down the bandage.. Oh well, it happens. The good news on that score is that I have been promoted to just a bandaid and the wound seems to be healing.
This is an unusual group, a strange mix of Dutch and German and a few strays. I usually know all the names by the third day, but this time I'm still practising. Partly because of all the seasickness, and partly because some of the people are so much alike. In some cases they even have the same name, so that is not too much of a problem. The group does feel different, some people persist in speaking their own language even in the company of other nationalities. I try to stick to English, not always easy.
So, Aitcho tomorrow. Always a place to look forward to because of the beautiful scenery, but it can also be quite rough and cold out there. Wonder what it will be like tomorrow.
9 February - Sunshine and Penguins
We had a very good day at Barrientos yesterday, one of the best. We started the day actually sailing, no engine just sails, to Aitcho. And we had to tack, the first time for me, the first time in three years for the captain. Sailing meant arriving a little later at Barrientos than we had planned, but still earlier than the schedule said. So a perfect way to start the day. Sails had to be furled, boats lowered into the water, but by 11 we started the first landing. It all went very well, very calmly, and we got everyone ashore quickly. Then it was time to meet the penguins as people spread out among the colony on the east side of the island. The young have reached adolescence now and are discovering the world. The creche was heading out to sea to work out what that was, others came to inspect our guests, who were sitting and lying at various spots around the rookery.
Sunshine all day, and after lunch we went on our walk to the western side of the island, to enjoy the views, the landscape and the smells of the Elephant Seals. This time we met up with some Fur seals too, they are back, and they are friendly as ever. We tried to keep clear of them, which wasn't always easy. It just stayed sunny and warm all day, so it was lovely to be out there. We were out until dinner time, and still had to pull people from the beach at the end of the walk.
Today looks like another very good day. So far we've had sunshine, great views of the mountains on the south side of Livingston Island, and we had the company of a pod of Killer whales for a while. And just after they left us we were joined by a couple of Humpback whales. It's nice enough for people to be out on deck almost all the time, and the deckhouse is empty, as it should be.
I'm feeling more comfortable on the ship again this trip, I'm back in the routine, and it's a good crew. After the first landing there is a good atmosphere in the group, we have our first couple of young lovers even. After the shock of the Drake and the slightly rougher weather people feel much more at ease now. This is the stage where people just wander round the ship with smiles on their faces. Looking out the window from the deckhouse now I can see the open sea on one side and beautiful snow-clad mountains on the other. The sky is blue with just a few white clouds and it is sunny. Most people are still out on deck, trying to spot more whales maybe. So far this has been a pretty good Antarctic trip.
Later in the evening
Another perfect day, I guess, almost too good to be true. Sunshine, so people were out on deck most of the day. Mid morning we were accompanied by Killer Whales for a while, and shortly after by a couple of Humpbacks. We arrived at Hannah Point while we were having lunch on deck again...
At Hannah Point it was busy. The penguins chicks are big now and they are beginning to discover the world. Many have almost changed their down for proper feathers, with a few nice tufts of down left here and there. Others are still downy and wander round in creches all round the colony. It gets harder to walk round the colony without disturbing penguins because they really are all over the place. I took some nice pictures today, ones that I am really happy with, one of a young penguin being fed and you can see the eyes of the krill in the food transferred. Another one is a close up of a young Gentoo, panting to try and cool down.
And we were lucky enough to get to see the Macaroni Penguins again, three individuals this time, all showing off and looking pretty. Since they were not breeding I expected them to be long gone, but they weren't, they were in their usual patch among the Chinstraps. Funny how they are always there on the exact same piece of rock every time.
Well, then there were the young Giant Petrels, easily visible on the rocks, and the young Kelp Gulls. There always is so much to see here.
10 February - I Did It, At Last
Well, I finally managed to do it. It took me a long time, about three years and seven visits, but today I made it and I joined the die hards. I went swimming at Pendulum Cove today. Well, swimming, it's a bit like wallowing, the things that seals do. You have about two meters just along the shoreline where it is nice and warm. Further inland you are liable to get burnt, further out into the water you are liable to get frozen. I was the first one in the water, I decided to just get ashore, take my clothes off and run, otherwise I would have had second thoughts again. Many trainees and some crew members joined me, so we had a long line of swimmers along the shore again. some went out a little further for some real swimming, lasting on average about 30 seconds, the really brave ones. Or foolish ones.
Getting out of the water isn't that much fun. As you lie in the cold water you need to gather courage to get up. It took me some time. Then I had to retrieve my clothes, which were under a great pile of other clothes by now. And I had to radio for a zodiac to come and pick up the first people out of the water while still in my swimsuit. It was just a little chilly. Nothing a nice hot shower couldn't cure though.
Our evening stop at Whalers Bay was short this time because of the rain and the cold. Most people didn't stay ashore for much more than an hour. And it is such a special place... It was very windy as well, and the captain had some trouble keeping the ship anchored properly, she was drifting ever closer to the beach. He had been joking in the afternoon that he would not put people ashore by zodiac but that he would get the ship close to the beach and hang a stepladder from the bowsprit. Seeing the ship so close to the beach I thought he was really going to do that for a moment...
11 February - Big Things Appearing in the Water
We've made the crossing over to the Peninsula again, and are now anchored at Trinity Island. It is a grey day, very foggy, but it's dry and not the least bit cold. I was out on the iceberg zodiac tour this morning, sitting in a small boat among the icebergs for about 2.5 hours, no gloves or hat and I still wasn't cold. It was a beautiful tour again, very different from last time. We couldn't go the same way as last time because of the swell, so we headed out into a channel on the other side, which was lovely. Steep clifs around, and a lot of icebergs in the water. Some very white this time, some almost transparently blue and obviously very old, some white with beautiful blue patches shining through. Lots of lovely little Fur seals on the shoreline, a lonely Weddell in the snow, and a lot of birds. Lovely to see a Cape Petrel feeding on the water, funny to see an Antarctic Tern take on a Sheathbill.
Getting here we got yet another treat. Shortly after breakfast someone shouted whales, so we all rushed upstairs. There were two Humpback whales quite close to the ship, and they stayed close for about half an hour. Close, as in sometimes about four or five metres away. They would come up, blow, dive again very regularly, showing little tail, but we could follow their flippers just beneath the surface of the water. A few times a gigantic head came out of the water for a few seconds to return the stares of the people on board the ship. We were being inspected by these inquisitive giants.
The days here are so busy, so much keeps happening, and I forget half again before I have a chance to write it all down. I should mention the huge piece of ice that is on deck now, and that we can use in our drinks tonight, who knows how old it is. Or our almost stowaway who has fallen in love on the ship and is seen sneaking around the corridors in her underwear when she thinks everyone is up on deck watching whales. New friendships being formed everywhere. The confines of a small group in a small space. Marijke's lovely drawings on the board next to the Galley door. Birthday cake for David today, and his face when he walked into breakfast and everybody started to sing. Ezequiel's beautiful drawing of the ship, an unexpected talent from our young Argentinian shipping agent. The bosun seen secretly kissing the deckhand on the sloopdeck. Just too much to tell, or maybe not to tell.... But now I need to go out and welcome back the second group of iceberg watchers. I wonder what their trip was like.
Later
The ship has turned Irish because of David's birthday. There is Irish music on deck and there are Irish drinks mixed with ancient Antarctic ice. We even got some Christy Moore, which was nice. There is a good atmosphere on board, another good trip in that respect. This may be a strange mix of people, but it seems to work very well so far. David celebrated his birthday this afternoon by going for a swim with Adrienne, a very brave thing to do out here. We've had swimmers before, but today they were the only two.
A few crew members are off to see the icebergs, the captain and the cook amongst them. The cook is a tiny woman, and she is wearing my oversized sailing suit. She looked unusual in it, and funny, but she'll stay warm. I hope they have a good time, they always work very hard. Well, I think I'll join the party again, it looks good out there.
12 February
This trip is beginning to look a little like the last one as far as the weather goes. We had some good days on the South Shetland Islands, but now it's grey and wet again. Not too cold, fortunately. This is a different group of people though, because on the last trip the deck was empty much of the time and the deckhouse was full. Now most people do spend time on deck to enjoy the views. I am in an empty library right now, as half the people are away on a short zodiac tour here in Gouvernoren, and others are on deck and in the deckhouse. It is nice to have a little peace and quiet sometimes.
Officially I am in daywatch, which means, I guess, that I work from about 8 a.m. to about 8 p.m., but it doesn't quite work out that way. I get asked questions almost from the moment I open my cabin door in the morning to the moment I close it again in the evening. Some people just want to chat, others have very specific questions. Also, while we are around Antarctica, we often have things programmed in the evening, a landing or a tour, maybe a lecture, and we work on the logbook and make the daily programme. I do get a little time off sometimes, like now, when I can sit in the library and write. I always bring a book on the trip, but I don't usually get to read very much. I check up on details for the landings for our briefings, I read up on my lectures, but that is about it.
We did a lot of work on the last trip that we can more or less use again, so this trip is a little less hectic. I have a little more time to help out with other things on the ship, and a little more time just to talk to the guests. It makes for a much more relaxed trip.
Early in the afternoon
This seems to be the big trip for whales. Eric, our captain, or the Big Bear, has just told the guests he won't be stopping for Humpback Whales anymore. After yesterday's big show, we had a minor repeat before lunch, just one whale staying close to the ship for a while, foraging slowly. Then there were two, accompanied by a funny Fur seal, trying to get some attention.
Then just after lunch we came across three sleeping Humpback whales. It was lovely to see them lying there in the water, perfectly still. Then they woke up, and they took a real, long interest in the ship. They kept circling round, staying close to the surface so we could see their huge bodies and the long white flippers. The heads came out several times, they inspected the ship carefully. Guests kept running from one side of the ship to the other, but the whales seemed to be everywhere. I've never seen them in such spectacular fashion before. My big camera was in my cabin, as usual, but I did manage to make some short films this time with the small camera I always carry with me these days. Now I know why I do....
All this does mean we have a one hour delay again, so we had to move our afternoon landing to the evening. I don't mind, because Cuverville is the perfect place to visit in the evening, after dinner.
So far this trip we've had much more than I expected beforehand. After the poor season for Killer whales we were lucky to see them, and now we have so many Humpback encounters we are almost getting used to it. Almost...
14 February - Lemaire At Last
Well, the luck hasn't run out yet. After two disappointing trips through the Lemaire Channel last time, today we are heading south again, and this time we have blue skies and bright sunshine. The views on the mountains are fantastic, everybody is up on deck enjoying the scenery and taking ever more pictures. And we haven't even reached Lemaire yet.
We had a very full day yesterday. We started at Neko Harbour, where people got to set foot on the continent. On arrival we were greeted by an Adelie penguin, the first one this trip, so it got a lot of attention. People wandered round the colony for a while, and some walked up the hill with Lex to slide down a little later. Neko looked totally different from last time, there was ice everywhere in the bay, and the zodiac drivers had to go around it and find their way onto the shallow beach. They did very well, as always.
Up on the beach we saw two Skuas dig into a young penguin. A horrific sight, in a way, but that is the way things are right here. It did attract the filmers and photographers.
Then the doctor had a look at my leg, changed the dressing and told me to go to my bunk for a while to give the leg some rest. Not my idea for the afternoon, as this was the time for the zodiac tour of Paradise Harbour, always beautiful. Later on I heard the stories of some close encounters with Leopard Seals there. Too bad, but that's the way it goes.
I did go ashore again in the evening at Almirante Brown. I had planned to stay near the shoreline, and just to watch the penguins for a bit, maybe go up a little to watch the sliding. But once I had started to walk up I did climb to the top and once I was up there I couldn't resist the sliding. It went well, fortunately. As usual this was a fun trip again, this time starting and ending with a big snowball fight. And all the people who went ashore really went sliding, even the ones who started out saying they wouldn't.
15 February - Into and Out Of the Swing
The day after the night before. Yesterday we reached our southernmost point again, Vernadsky Station. So it was party time. While we took the guests ashore for a tour of the station and the bar, the crew turned the ship into a party boat. Lights, a tarpauling, barbecues, Antarctic Beer on Antarctic Ice, balloons and little Valentine hearts. Time to eat first, on salads, a lot of meat, and fresh bread. Then the tables were cleared away and it was time to dance. It didn't take long for the party to get started, as it was pretty cold and the music was inviting. Our captain makes a good dj. I guess it went the way it usually goes. The dancers were happy from the start, the more doubtful ones soon got into the spirit of the thing and joined in anyway. The girls all ended up dancing on the wheelhouse, even I joined in this time, we got to wear our pretty skirts and dresses. Later on in the evening the Ukrainians joined us again, some of them are good dancers, and they enjoy our parties.
The visit to the station is always a different experience after so many days of wildlife, glaciers and icebergs. Some guests enjoy the different atmosphere, others don´t want to come or soon tire of the bar and the shop. They think of this visit as an unwelcome interruption of their Antarctic experience. It is all part of the trip though because this is the human history. Some guests expect to be welcomed as a nice diversion, while in reality we visit a serious research base and we interrupt the work. We are not the only ship to visit the base.
Getting this far south today was totally unlike our trip south last time. It was cold but dry, a little windy at times but definitely nice enough to spend much time on deck. The entrance to the Lemaire Channel brought us a pack of Leopard Seals, I counted about ten, lying on different ice floes, resting. And the end of the Channel brought us a couple more Humpback Whales, this time showing off their beautiful white tails. And we could see all of the Lemaire, including the tops of the mountains. The early morning brought us a lot of sunshine and beautiful views all the way.
Rather unlike this morning, really, because it is grey and raining. We are heading towards Petermann Island and the Adelie penguins, but I don´t know what that landing will be like. It might be short and wet again. This probably is not my season for seeing my favourite penguins.
As the trip progresses I am finally getting to know all the guests, getting to talk to all of them. A party is always a good opportunity, even though there was more dancing than talking last night. And there are times during walks, or waiting ashore somewhere for conversation. This is a different kind of group, with a big group of Germans and a big group of Dutch with just a few other nationalities, one Irish, one Swiss and one Argentinian. The Swiss is mixed up with the German group, the Irish and the Argentinian find their way around both groups, but it does feel a little like two groups. They mix, but not really.
Later
Well, I'm stuck in the poker corner for now, the doctor had a look at my leg this morning and told me no more dancing this trip and to take it easy. So I decided not to go to Petermann this afternoon, even though that means no Adelies.
The ship always is different when there are no or few guests on board. Suddenly it belongs to the regular crew again. I hear voices from the galley, the sound of the vacuum cleaner in the lounge, and music. It also sounds a little empty somehow. I know this won't last long because the first guests are bound to be back in an hour or so. The weather still isn't great so some won't want to stay out for too long.
16 February - At Rick's Place
Back in my favourite Port, at Lockroy. A beautiful secluded bay, surrounded by mountains. Today full of young penguins and patrolled by a Leopard Seal. The scenery here is beautiful, my favourite mountain is here, and I get to catch up with Rick at the museum. Over the past three years I've gotten to know him a little and I've grown to like him very much. That makes coming here special. We visited the museum this afternoon, and had all our guests spend their money in the gift shop and post office again. I had a longer look round the museum again, taking some pictures, I never get round to doing that.
After the landing at Petermann yesterday we sailed back up through the Lemaire, this time in the rain and the mist. We arrived in Lockroy early in the evening, when the weather was good and the light was just perfect. I was up in the wheelhouse for a long time as we were sailing in, just enjoying the light on the mountains.
This morning we landed at Jougla Point, no sunshine but nice enough weather. A nice wander along the beach and among the whalebones and a good walk across the hills. A lot of moulting penguins here again, and the almost grown young. We had a Leopard Seal in the water quite close to the zodiac, that seems to happen all the time at the moment. This is the time when there is a lot of food for them, young penguins going out to sea for the first time, and so where there are penguin colonies you get Leopard Seals. I had never seen so many during one trip, or seen them so close.
At Jougla I managed to just about fall in the water. I stepped aside to let a guest pass and slipped. I just managed to remain standing up, but did end up in the water up to my knees. I got out quickly enough though, and the combination of my rubber boots and my sailing gear kept me more or less dry. I had been so careful today not to fall, and then this happens, of course. My leg is getting better now, the wound is healing, and the doctor looked a little happier.
I did just deliver my lecture on Edward Wilson, but I'm not too happy about the way that went. I was too tired to stay concentrated, and there were sounds from just outside the room all the time, which distracted me. After the lecture I showed Herbert Ponting's film on the Scott expedition and I sat and watched that. I hadn't seen it for a while, so it was nice to see it again. Still strange though, to see Wilson moving on the screen. His great-nephew is working as a guide on one of the other ships here, and he should be in Ushuaia just as we get back, so I'm hoping to get a chance to talk to him.
17 February
Our last landing today, at Dorian Bay, just round the corner from the post office. It was a nice landing, the weather was good, we got to see a lot of penguins and some Fur seals, and we had enough time to just walk at a slow pace and take everything in. The Fur seals were not too happy to see us, but we still managed to get close enough to take pictures without causing too much trouble. At the beach where we were picked up we could wander among the icebergs that have drifted up on the beach. I touched some to feel the different textures of the various layers, something you don`t usually get to do. Cold, but it was nice. Some of the icebergs on the beach were lovely and blue.
Up on the hills we decided to have a few moments silence, so for about three minutes everybody sat down and was quiet. All you could hear were the penguins, making a lot of noise as usual, and the water down by the rocks. Some people sat just on the other side of the ridge, they must have loved these moments.
The group climbed up the hill to have a look at Port Lockroy from up high, but I decided not to risk that with my leg, so I sat down near the two refuges at the bottom. I soon got company, a Skua sat down just a couple of metres away from me. And this was one of those rare occasions that I actually had the right camera and the right lens at hand, so I could take some really close-up portrait photos of this bird.
Now we are heading north again through the Neumayer Channel, on to the Melchior Islands, our final destination. Tomorrow morning we will have a zodiac tour there, and then we will head out onto the Drake. A strange idea, the two trips have gone so fast. No more landings. Strangely enough some 10 people decided to stay on board this morning because they feel they have seen enough penguins.
The number of guests on these trips has gradually increased over the past couple of years. When I first worked here we had only 36, on this trip we have 42. You do notice that in some small ways. For instance, it takes an extra ride to get everybody ashore on the landings, you need to squeeze in a little more during the zodiac rides, and when the weather isn't too great all the public spaces on the ship are full and it is hard to find a quiet corner. I am writing this in the library, which should be a fairly quiet place, but there are some 14 people in here now, and it is not quiet.
Today is the final day of our traditional photo competition, so many people are staring at the screens on their cameras or at their computer screens. It took them some time to get started this trip, but now they are all busy sorting out pictures. It always is a lot of work to collect everything, but very nice to see all these pictures together.
18 February
I am working in the library on the pictures of the photo competition. They all have to be renamed to make them anonymous, just to ensure fair judging, and they need to be resized. Well, fortunately all of these processes are highly automated, so all I have to do is press the right button.
The first group is out on the zodiac tour of the Melchior islands, I will be in the second group, leaving in about an hour and a half. It's a lovely calm day.
This afternoon we're heading out onto the Drake again, so no more calm days.
Early afternoon
Well, we're heading out. It's snowing, everything is seafast, so we're ready. This morning's tour brought us a lot of Fur Seals and Weddell seals, some beautiful icebergs and our last penguins. And it brought us snow and cold.
Now we're heading back out to sea, back north to Ushuaia and warmer climes. I wonder what this crossing will be like, how many people we will see on a regular basis, whether we will get to see Cape Horn, and whether we will get to do as much sailing as most of us hope. I think the first few have already disappeared into their cabins. The watch leaders have set up extensive watch schedules, but already there is mutiny in the ranks, and they have not taken into account the fact that many will disappear for periods of time. It is funny to see how these things work.
This has been a strange trip in many ways. I can't remember a trip with this many whales and Leopard seals. And I can't remember a trip with so many warnings about water use, our water maker can't keep up with the amount we use every day. And despite the warnings from the engineer people still take a lot of showers - says the woman who just took her first shower in six days, before they become impossible for the next five. So no laundry, for example. Water use seems to be almost twice as high as on most trips.
I also can't remember a trip with such a one or two-sided group of trainees. The Dutch and the Germans have remained to some extent two separate groups, which isn't good really. I've noticed a few differences between the Dutch and the Germans this trip, and the Dutch don't always come out that well. There also are more young people, as in under 30, on board than we usually have.
I have a lot of music in my head today, I'm not sure why. I'm listening to An Pierle's Mud Stories now, the song is so beautiful. After seven weeks on the ship, away from just about everything, but on the way back, I've started thinking about my other life again. I have a Christy Moore concert to look forward to in May, Piter is playing round the corner in March, and I have a feeling we'll be going to see An again sometime soon too.
19 February
The seasickness tablets have kicked in, so I'm having a hard time keeping my eyes open. I'm not sick though. This is the time for finishing all the work, doing the paper work and trying to hand over properly. I have to do the paper work for the on-board shop in order to be able to do the accounts at the end of the trip. Then there are the IAATO procedures and writing a note to Tjalling, the next expedition leader.
The most tangible hand-over between Tjalling and me is always "The Suit". He is a tall man, and he has this really warm, but huge suit on the ship, that I get to borrow when I'm here. It's huge and it's red, and it makes me look a little like a big red penguin. I use it for longer zodiac rides, for evening landings and when I go sliding. It's a little big for me, but it does keep me warm and dry. Rensje, our cook, sometimes wears it too, and she is about half my size...
After a dreary start to the crossing it is sunny outside now. The crew are busy with the sails, though the engine is still running. The watches have started up again, so it is quiet everywhere. People are working up on deck, or sleeping after working through part of the night. From the porthole in my little office here I can see the bow moving up and down, and I can feel it too. I keep getting thrown into the wall here. In a way I'm glad this is only a tiny office, you can never fall very far. The mate told me that tonight we should get some strong winds, so I guess we'd better get ready for some serious moving.
20 February 2008
Well, we moved. I spent the usual night sliding down in my bed and dragging myself back up again. These are long nights..
Yesterday I also managed to have my traditional fall on Europa, sliding down the galley floor this time. I was holding two bowls of crisps to take upstairs to the deckhouse when I lost my balance, slid down the floor, into the corridor and came to a standstill against the doorpost of cabin 6. My arm and my hip caught most of the blow, my hip can take it, my arm still hurts. I was happy not to have slid on into cabin 6. And I got the usual response from my loving and caring partner, who was in bed at the time: "What about the crisps?" My arm seems to be working again now, I can reach almost all the way up, and I have a nice big, blue bruise on my hip.
Today is another day of organising, of finishing the work before the end of the trip. Once in Ushuaia we stay on board for a day to help out and then we have a few days to ourselves in Ushuaia and Buenos Aires.
21 February
We seem to be heading for Cape Horn, but you never know around here. Most of the guests are up and about again, at least some of the time, and we've started providing entertainment again. This morning Mike is talking about celestial navigation, this afternoon Captain Eric, or as I should say, the Big Bear, will be talking about sailing a square rigger. I'll go and listen to that one. I heard Mike's talk on the last trip and enjoyed that. Mike is from the Northern hemisphere, like all the guests, but last time Dan, from New Zealand, kept saying that it isn't the people down under who walk upside down... Strange man. I'm with Mike on this one.
This evening we're showing a film about the Peking, an old sailing ship that used to round the Horn carrying cargo. I've been writing a short introduction to that one, saying something about the ship and about the Horn. I must admit, not really being a sailor, "Round the Horne" to me is a 1950's BBC radio show more than anything else... The sailors on board talk of Cape Horn as "just a rock", while the trainees would be very disappointed if we didn't get to see it. I've seen it before, and I do agree with the captain and the mate, it is just a rock, but I do know the history...
Some of the trainees are pretty fed up with this voyage home already, they think four days rolling on the open sea is a little too much. It's always the same, and the way back not only is longer than the way down, it seems much longer. People want to go home now, and not be rocked about 24 hours a day. We don't do much sailing at the moment, so the watch system isn't really running and that doesn't help. If you're working time goes faster and you don't have the chance to get bored. Still, after this it's only one more day at sea, then it's the Beagle and Ushuaia.
22 February
A different day. We are sailing, have been since yesterday afternoon, so the watch system is up and running again. Trainees are at the wheel, steering us in the right direction. That direction is not Cape Horn, unfortunately, but the entrance to the Beagle Channel. The wind is pretty good now, but we are expecting headwinds later on today, so we will have to start motoring again. There are a lot of advantages to sailing, no noise of the engines, people involved in sailing the ship, less use of diesel, and less rolling. We are, however, on one side now, the ship listing heavily to the starboard side. This is the time of the trip when just putting in your contact lenses in the morning takes about ten minutes. My arm still hurts from my fall, and that is exactly the side I need to be leaning on most of the time.
I've been working on the logbook for this trip this morning, reading it through for spelling and other mistakes, adding bits and pieces. We've managed to create almost 40 pages, so it takes a little while. It looks nice again though, and I am sure the guests will be happy to have this. We've also managed to collect a lot of pictures for the crew again.
It's hard to believe that this time tomorrow we will be in the Beagle Channel, and tomorrow evening we will be back in Ushuaia. The end of two trips, seven weeks, back on land where things don't move around by themselves, and where the floors are level and not at a 25 degree angle the whole time. We will get to see other faces than the ones that have surrounded us for the past three weeks.
In a way life is very simple on board this ship, there is a lot you don't have to think about. The galley cooks the meals every day, we just help with the dishes once in a while. No shopping, little cleaning. There are other things for us to think about, like organising the daily programme, writing the logbook for the guests every day, preparing landings while we're around the Peninsula, making sure we have all the necessary information to be able to tell the guests what they need to know. Basically you are at work all the time that you are awake, apart form the time you have to yourself late at night in the bar. And even then you can get a lot of questions, so you end up working again. Your life is pretty much organised and regulated, so in a way you don't really have to think very much.
23 February
The nervousness of the last day. We are out of the Drake and in the Beagle Channel, motoring along gently. Everybody has come back to life and is enjoying the sight of land on both sides of the ship. We were greeted joyfully this morning by a small group of dusky dolphins, jumping out of the water to welcome us back, just as they were there to see us off three weeks ago. It's a lovely day, with a few drops of rain at times, but a lot of sunshine mainly. The people are up on deck wearing fleece jackets rather than foul weather gear, and it almost looks like summer.
A lot of things to finish today and other things to do in preparation for the next voyage. Getting everything organised for the next expedition leader, doing all those things you couldn't do while the ship and everything in it were all over the place. A logbook and voyage cd to create for 42 people, answering all the questions about the last day on board and then the transfer to the real world outside.
The guests are saying goodbye to the ship, taking pictures of everything and everyone, just as they did on the first day. It is different now, because they all know each other quite well, reputations have been created, friendships made. All groups are different, and they are all the same. The barman suggested that a trip on board this ship would be a good subject for a sociology thesis, and I agree with him. Like him I tend to remain on the outside, a spectator, though I sometimes get involved and I have my preferences for some while I may be trying to avoid one or two others. Some people need a lot of attention from the start, others you are just getting to know towards the end. And I must confess that by the end of the second trip I sometimes find it hard to remember exactly who was on the first. I've become acquainted with 42 more guests, and many there are only so many you can keep in mind.
The Beagle isn't a bad way to get back into civilization. People can see the green of the land and the trees, the pilot is a new face, suddenly mobile phones work again so people are calling home. Arrival in Ushuaia is usually sudden and hard. Within a very short time the group disappears in different directions for dinner or some last minute shopping, or maybe just a drink at some bar, surrounded by different faces.
24 February
It´s almost 6 a.m., all is quiet on the ship. I have the early morning watch because I will be doing the accounting in about an hour. I just entered the last expenses in the ship´s computer, last night´s bar bills, and they reflect last night´s party here on the ship. I was woken for my watch at 4:45, but I think the last partygoers went to bed only shortly before that. Now it is lovely and quiet on board. In an hour breakfast will start though, and the preparations for that should be underway soon.
Today will be a busy day, saying goodbye to everyone, then the cleaning and starting to get things ready for the next trip. Then tomorrow morning it is time for me to leave the ship again. It always is strange moving from one life to the other.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Saturday, February 02, 2008
Travelling South Again
11 januari 2008 - Expectations
Back in the south to be on board my ship again. And on the verge of travelling even further south. It always is an adventure, even though this is my fourth season on the ship, the third one travelling to the Antarctic. There is a sense of expectation on the ship now. The previous crew have left, all those remaining and those new have been working hard to get everything cleaned up on time, and the ship looks in good shape. Sunshine on deck, so we can welcome the guests with coffee and "facturas" (pastry) outside. Always a good way to start a new trip.
Ushuaia is getting bigger every year, more shops, more tourist busses, more ships, more people. The people here are generally nice and relaxed, the whole place feels relaxed. Not a bad place to start a trip from. Coming back here for the fourth year means you get to see a lot of familiar faces again, Juan and Diego at the hotel, the surly man at the internet cafe, Carolina on the catamarans.
I am looking forward to travelling to the Antarctic again, to see the icebergs, the whales, the albatross and the penguins, and to enjoy the blue, the light and the silence. It is a special place to visit, quite different from any other place. Again, I know some strange details about the place. Like where exactly to look for the two flowering plants that grow here. And to within the square metre where I can find the two or three couples of Macaroni penguins that breed this far south. I am looking forward to seeing my favourite mountain again. And I know where to find the most beautiful ice cave.
The Europa is a tall ship, and there is a great sense of history on board. The ship is less than 100 years old, but it feels like one of those 19th century barques. We do have the modern conveniences on board, of course, good bathrooms, showers, a network for the computers, and every possible piece of equipment to make sure we are a very safe ship. But it is nice to also have the sails, the rigging, the wheel outside.
We will sail down the Beagle Channel tomorrow morning, with our new trainee crew, and we will be on the Drake Passage before the end of the day. I wonder what the crossing will be like....
13 January 2008 - The Drake Lake
Some days you are not really sure where you are. Today I am on board a ship, sailing not motoring, down this peaceful stretch of water. Wandering albatross, Black-browed albatross, Royal albatross, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels and Wilson's Storm-petrels around. Sunshine on deck. So did we take a wrong turn somewhere or are we really on the Drake Passage? The weather forecast does say that this will all change later today, that we we get strong headwinds, so we will have to switch the motor on and we will start moving about a little more.
For now we are doing a little more than the speed we need to average and we are heading in the right direction, to the South Shetland Islands where we will have our first landing in a few days time. I'm looking forward to seeing beautiful Barrientos Island again, to meet up with its penguin, elephant seal and giant petrel populations and to marvel again at its landscape.
Right now I am a little drowsy from so much fresh air, all these birds, all these seasickness tablets. I'm back in the rhythm of travelling aboard ship.
14 January 2008 - The Routine
This remains an unusual crossing. We are gently moving, you can feel you're on board a ship, but you don't fall over every minute. And we are actually sailing, no engines, just sails and the wind to get us to our destination. We are moving at a reasonable speed, not necessarily in exactly the right direction, but not far off.
Most of the guests seem to gradually find their way around the ship and they are getting used to the routine. The number of people seasick is way below average so far because the sea is relatively calm. People are working during their watches, and spend as much time as they can up on deck. We've started the lectures with talks on seabirds and on the ice. I'm working on the Antarctic Convergence for a short explanation tonight.
There are plenty of seabirds, just enough wind for them. It always is a lovely sight to see those Wanderers gliding past the ship, staying with us for a while before moving on again.
Every year services on the ship improve. It is now easier for guests to use the phone and to send emails, and in that way keep in touch with home. We also have plenty of volunteers to help keep the home front informed by writing pieces for the ship's weblog. I think two pieces are written everyday, so those who stayed behind will know what we've been up to. If you didn't know yet, check the logbook on www.barkeuropa.com.
Later in the evening
No more sailing, unfortunately, we now hear the gentle drone of the engines. This afternoon we did our bit for science, the ship takes part in the "Aliens in Antarctica" project, trying to determine how many foreign plant species we transport into Antarctica in our clothes, bags and other equipment. We had to "vacuum" some of our guests, their bags and outdoor clothing, and keep all the material derived from that in plastic bags to send for examination in a lab. I wonder what the results of that will be. It was quite hard to find volunteers in the end, because it turned out that most people have bought new clothes for this trip...
15 January 2008 - Almnost there
After a few relatively quiet days the ship is moving about a bit today. This is the time to hold on to your cups and glasses and to make sure you always have a hand free for the ship. Not everybody is willing to do so yet, and some people are willing to battle the laws of nature, refusing to give in to the forces of the swell, the wind and gravity. Yes, it does take you five minutes to put on your pants, and there just isn't a lot you can do about it.
Today we tell the guests about the way to behave when we get to actually set foot on land again. Right now that still seems far away, but we have our first landing scheduled for tomorrow. Or, maybe more importantly, tomorrow we will all be able to have a shower again...
This has been a good crossing though, as we have been able to do a lot of proper sailing. Most of the sails are up, and we are making good speed for the South Shetland Islands. It is lovely and sunny now, which helps put people in a good mood.
16 January 2008 - Beautiful Barrientos
Our first landing and it couldn't have been much better. A beautiful blue sky, very little swell so a smooth ride to shore, and then just lots of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins, Elephant Seals, Sheathbills, Giant Petrels and Skuas. The magical landscape of Aitcho is different every time, the light is different every time, and the atmosphere is different every time. This time we had bright sunshine, but the land was still to a great extent covered in snow. That meant that for a great part of the walk we didn't have to worry about stepping on mosses. Or "moses", as German Thomas would have it. A wonderful start to this part of the trip.
Some people are happy for different reasons too. If you've been seasick in your cabin for a few days it is just lovely to wake up on a ship that is hardly moving at all, to feel hungry instead of sick, to be able to go and have breakfast
and actually eat.
17 January 2008 - Macaronis
After two days in the South Shetland Islands it on the one hand is still hard to believe I'm back here, on the other hand it is almost as if I've not been away. We landed on Hannah Point on Livingston Island today. A beautiful place, where many different birds nest. The one place out here where there is a good chance you get to meet up with a Macaroni Penguin, there always are a couple, and they were here today. At first they were just lying around, but then they started a little display which impressed the visitors. This also is the place where you can see both kinds of Antarctic plants, the Hairgrass and the Pearlwort. So as a guide you need to keep telling people to keep off the grass. As I got back on to the ship today, I was told to head for the other side of the ship to see a couple of Humpbacks swim past. What more do you want? You just grab the mulled wine that is ready on deck and enjoy the view.
Another beautiful sunny day today, just a little swell, which made for a bumpy ride in the zodiac back to the ship. Not too bad though, I didn't really get wet. So, just another beautiful day in the Antarctic, I guess.
18 January 2008 - Black and White
I am writing this sitting on board a ship which is anchored in the caldera of a volcano. We are in Deception Island, which really is just that, a volcano. This morning we walked in this black and white landscape, this afternoon was the chance to go swimming in the hot springs. It was a perfect day for it, a little windy and chilly, but there was a lot of hot water at just the right temperature. I had wanted to go this time round, but I have such a bad cold at the moment, I didn't want to take the risk. I cannot really afford to get sick. But I'm hoping to get another chance in three weeks time....
After a couple of bright, sunny days, today is a little more cold and grey. It kind of suits the place, the greys and the blacks. The clouds are low, touching the top of the caldera, creating a little mystery.
Later in the evening
Tonight we had a landing at Whalers Bay, one of the strangest places here. Great natural beauty, the black and white landscape has some brightly coloured patches in there. But this is also the place where many whales were slaughtered and cooked, and the remains of the whaling station are a reminder of that era. There always is a ghostly atmosphere here, empty, decaying buildings, falling apart. The only building still in reasonable shape is the airplane hangar, one of the last additions to the site. An eerie place, this Whalers Bay.
19 January 2008 - Icebergs
We are now close to the Peninsula, travelling ever further south. Today was our day for all the icebergs. The narrow passage between Trinity and Spert Islands works as a trap for icebergs, they all get stuck there. This provides us with a great opportunity for seeing some of them close up. We were our in the zodiacs cruising among them. You always need to be careful around icebergs, but you can still get reasonably close and study all the different shades of blue in them. And there are many.
Out here you can also get some nice close up views of the wildlife. Today we got to see a Fur Seal, some Weddells and a Leopard Seal, as well as a nice variety of birds.
Coming back from our second trip the fog had really come in and covered the ship. For a while we weren't sure where she was. We were heading in one direction, but when I turned my head I could just see the outline of the ship to the right. So a sharp turn and we headed home. We all had visions of the Flying Dutchman.
20 January 2008 - The White Ship
Well, we keep getting reminded that this is the real thing and not some amusement park. We had a good programme for today, a Zodiac tour in the morning and a landing in the afternoon. And then it got a little cold and it started to snow, so we are not making as much speed as we should. We skipped the zodiac tour in the morning and still hope to do the landing. We know it's pretty cold and wet now, not just by feeling it ourselves, but also by the fact that Mike, the tough sailor, was out on deck in full sailing gear and wearing a jacket this morning, rather than just a t-shirt. Like he was last night.
Instead of the zodiac tour we have a beautiful white ship, snow that rests on the surface of the water, and a big snowball fight on deck. And the guests get a proper sense of what it is to be out here in the Antarctic. It always is good to think about the first men that came down here. They did not have such a comfortable ship, none of our modern conveniences, none of our sophisticated clothing, but they still managed out here. The explorers from the heroic age didn't come down here for three weeks but for a year or more, living through not just the summer, but through the winter with its cold and darkness. That is a different story altogether.
Evening
We've landed at Cuverville, another lovely spot. For me, this is the place to just sit on the beach for a while and watch the penguins get in and out of the water. The sea is very clear here, so you can see them approaching from quite far away, coming in very fast, sometimes looking up out of the water to see where landing is safe, and then hop on to the beach. Tonight there was a small iceberg just in front of the beach, a good resting place for penguins. They were hopping on and off, pushing each other off, it was an interesting performance, very funny at times.
One of the guests had brought along a small, pooping, plastic penguin, which he put on a piece of ice in the water, hoping for a real penguin to notice it. He got more than he bargained for. A penguin jumped up on the ice and started to examine the intruder. It made for a nice photo, a good entry for the photo competition.
21 January 2008 - The Continent
There is some debate about what constitutes the continent around here. My fellow-guide Dan tells me that a landing at Neko Harbour is a sure step on the continent, there are some doubts about Almirante Brown or Gonzalez Videla, other possibilities. So, depending on what is correct, I might have set foot on the continent for the first time today. Otherwise, that happened two years ago. It doesn't matter all that much to me.
Neko Harbour is a lovely place though. Another lovely beach where you can sit down and watch the penguins arrive, and where you have Wilson's Storm Petrels flying over low. And where people can slide down in the snow. I didn't do that today, though I did go sliding down at Almirante Brown. And I enjoyed that. We were just a small group in the evening, which made it unusual. And before sliding down we had a few minutes silence up on the mountain, just looking out over this unbelievable landscape.
Back at the ship we were visited by a regular, a skua that lives round here and always pays a courtesy visit to ships anchored here. It sits on board the ship for a while, changing landing spots once in a while, and examines life on board. This must be one of the most photograped skuas on the peninsula.
I am writing this late in the evening, our ship anchored in Paradise Bay. It was given this name by men a long time ago, tough men, who thought this the most beautiful place on earth. I understand them, this is a lovely place, and I will sleep well here tonight.
22 January 2008 - Furthest South
When I think of the words " Furthest South" I really think about Antarctic history. Until Roald Amundsen reached the south pole the record for Furthest South was set and improved on several times. Shackleton held it for a while, Scott did (he was in the company of Shackleton and Wilson). It all started with Cook, I guess, and the list includes names like James Clark Ross, James Weddell and Borchgrevink. Now it'll stay Amundsens.
Our furthest south is nowhere near as far, we will only go as far as 65°15'S, still quite a way from the pole. And even still above the Pole Circle. But we still think our reaching this place is worth a party. First we have the barbecue, then a few people start to dance, but they are enthusiastic enough to get everybody going. Some Ukrainians from the nearby research station join in the fun, and one of them is up on deck, dancing in this t-shirt for most of the evening. One of the Spanish girls ends up belly-dancing, one of the Spanish guys plays the mock trumpet, a cowboy hat and silver jacket. In the end even the ones who refuse to dance at first give in. It's a lovely sight.
23 January 2008 - Rain
I can't remember a previous trip with this much rain. Another foggy and rainy day, and we don't get to see the Lemaire Channel at all. Today we landed at Petermann Island, home to the Adelie penguins, and got very wet. People were quite happy though, seeing these beautiful small penguins, but they were also very happy to get some hot chocolate once back on the ship. And they were equally happy going out on deck again a little later to watch four Humpback whales pass by.
24 January 2008 - Shopping
Finally, a sunny and dry day. So what do we do? We go shopping! There is one souvenir shop and post office on our route, and we visited that today. It is a lovely place though, on a tiny island which houses some 600 Gentoo penguins and a fairly large community of Sheathbills. The shop is in a former British base, now a museum, full of items from the fifties. For some people nostalgia all the way. The shop sells postcards, t-shirts and penguin items, as well as the Antarctic tartan. One of the joys of being in this place are the people. Rick has been at Port Lockroy for a long time, working there in the summer, and he has great stories to tell. He also is a very nice person and I always look forward to seeing him again. He has different assistents every year, but they always are nice people. That is probably a condition for getting the job.
This morning we had a lovely walk up at Jougla Point. First a wander round the Gentoo colony, and then on up the hill for a bit of exercise. The weather was lovely, so at the end we all just sat on the beach for a while, enjoying the warmth and the sunshine. Life can be pretty good down here.
It's hard to imagine, being here again, that within 48 hours we will be heading north again and will be on the Drake Passage. Walking among the penguins always is a strange experience at first, but after a couple of weeks it seems only natural and it is hard to remember to keep your distance. I keep having to remind people, but I do understand.
25 January 2008 - More Rain
The last landing today, but only 16 people dared brave the elements, the wind and the rain. Those who did came back soaking wet but happy. Everyone else was quite happy on the ship. People are sorting out pictures for the photo competition and for the crew, and we showed some films on recent British Antarctic history. I enjoyed those, especially because I saw some familiar faces in there.
26 January 2008 - Goodbye
Yesterday morning our last zodiac tour round the Melchior Islands. Here you can take your zodiac into narrow channels between islands, see some seals and enjoy the colours of the snow and the ice. We started the first tour with sunshine and a bright blue sky. A little later on the fog moved in and it got grey again. Two of the small boats decided to go round the outside back to the ship. That meant quite a long ride back with some swell and in the fog. We got back to the ship a little late and a little cold, so I couldn't really go on the second run.
Time for a nice hot shower though, and a little rest before we set out towards the Drake Passage again. Now we are out on the open sea again, the watch system is running and people are busy at the wheel and on lookout. There also is time to just stand out on deck and watch the birds, when they are around. This morning that was limited to Cape Pigeons and the odd Black-browed albatross. But everyone is still hoping for a few more whales.
28 January 2008 - Drake
We are almost halfway back to Ushuaia, we will be at the Beagle Channel in a couple more days. That is the time people will reappear from cabins, the ones who have remained on watch will finally be able to have a shower again, and mobile phones will start to ring. Back to civilization. I always have mixed feelings about that. I like it, different faces, another landscape, ice-cream at Gadget, but I will also miss the isolation of the ship, of being part of a world that is so much smaller and simpler. No news, we haven't heard much of what has been happening in the world outside. It will be nice to get back in touch with the people I care about, to hear how they are, and to share something of my experiences. I know that I will be part of civilization for just a few days, and then my next voyage starts. Another three weeks in a small world.
29 January - Drake Again
We are still on the Drake, and will be for another 24 hours or so. The ship has been tilted in one direction for most of the crossing, so everything that isn't fastened to something heads in that direction automatically. It's hard to hold on to doors and other things, and you need constantly be aware of your movements, often timing them to the waves.
We will probably be in the Beagle tomorrow night, hopefully enjoying some calmer sailing, though I heard there will be a lot of wind. Some people I haven't really seen since the start of the crossing, they will probably start to surface tomorrow evening.
We held another photo competition on this trip, and got over 20 entries to the various categories, some 100 pictures altogether. We just had a showing of all of them in the lounge, and this gave a very nice overview of the trip. Some beautiful landscapes, lovely pictures of the ship, interesting pictures of the people and the wildlife. A slide show, created by some 20 people, creating a beautiful picture. We haven't had all that much sunshine, and that has resulted in eerie pictures of the ship in the fog, a little unsettling.
30 January - Almost
Almost home now, this time tomorrow we may have Ushuaia in sight. I think for quite a few people that will be a good thing, since the ship has been moving about a lot today. Some will miss the sailing and the routine on board the ship, others will be very happy to feel firm ground under their feet.
Today some of the people who have been doing well so far are seasick. I spent a couple of hours in bed this morning, and I just heard the captain isn't feeling too well at the moment. He isn't on watch now, and I hope he feels better by the evening.
The return journey is always so different from the outward journey for many reasons. On the way down people are full of expectation of things to come, we have lectures to tell people about all they will see, we are heading to where we want to go. On the way back people enjoy the sailing, if we can sail, but some would just like to go home and get this long crossing over with.
1 February - Back in Ushuaia
Well, we're back, so I can post this. Soon more, I hope.
Back in the south to be on board my ship again. And on the verge of travelling even further south. It always is an adventure, even though this is my fourth season on the ship, the third one travelling to the Antarctic. There is a sense of expectation on the ship now. The previous crew have left, all those remaining and those new have been working hard to get everything cleaned up on time, and the ship looks in good shape. Sunshine on deck, so we can welcome the guests with coffee and "facturas" (pastry) outside. Always a good way to start a new trip.
Ushuaia is getting bigger every year, more shops, more tourist busses, more ships, more people. The people here are generally nice and relaxed, the whole place feels relaxed. Not a bad place to start a trip from. Coming back here for the fourth year means you get to see a lot of familiar faces again, Juan and Diego at the hotel, the surly man at the internet cafe, Carolina on the catamarans.
I am looking forward to travelling to the Antarctic again, to see the icebergs, the whales, the albatross and the penguins, and to enjoy the blue, the light and the silence. It is a special place to visit, quite different from any other place. Again, I know some strange details about the place. Like where exactly to look for the two flowering plants that grow here. And to within the square metre where I can find the two or three couples of Macaroni penguins that breed this far south. I am looking forward to seeing my favourite mountain again. And I know where to find the most beautiful ice cave.
The Europa is a tall ship, and there is a great sense of history on board. The ship is less than 100 years old, but it feels like one of those 19th century barques. We do have the modern conveniences on board, of course, good bathrooms, showers, a network for the computers, and every possible piece of equipment to make sure we are a very safe ship. But it is nice to also have the sails, the rigging, the wheel outside.
We will sail down the Beagle Channel tomorrow morning, with our new trainee crew, and we will be on the Drake Passage before the end of the day. I wonder what the crossing will be like....
13 January 2008 - The Drake Lake
Some days you are not really sure where you are. Today I am on board a ship, sailing not motoring, down this peaceful stretch of water. Wandering albatross, Black-browed albatross, Royal albatross, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels and Wilson's Storm-petrels around. Sunshine on deck. So did we take a wrong turn somewhere or are we really on the Drake Passage? The weather forecast does say that this will all change later today, that we we get strong headwinds, so we will have to switch the motor on and we will start moving about a little more.
For now we are doing a little more than the speed we need to average and we are heading in the right direction, to the South Shetland Islands where we will have our first landing in a few days time. I'm looking forward to seeing beautiful Barrientos Island again, to meet up with its penguin, elephant seal and giant petrel populations and to marvel again at its landscape.
Right now I am a little drowsy from so much fresh air, all these birds, all these seasickness tablets. I'm back in the rhythm of travelling aboard ship.
14 January 2008 - The Routine
This remains an unusual crossing. We are gently moving, you can feel you're on board a ship, but you don't fall over every minute. And we are actually sailing, no engines, just sails and the wind to get us to our destination. We are moving at a reasonable speed, not necessarily in exactly the right direction, but not far off.
Most of the guests seem to gradually find their way around the ship and they are getting used to the routine. The number of people seasick is way below average so far because the sea is relatively calm. People are working during their watches, and spend as much time as they can up on deck. We've started the lectures with talks on seabirds and on the ice. I'm working on the Antarctic Convergence for a short explanation tonight.
There are plenty of seabirds, just enough wind for them. It always is a lovely sight to see those Wanderers gliding past the ship, staying with us for a while before moving on again.
Every year services on the ship improve. It is now easier for guests to use the phone and to send emails, and in that way keep in touch with home. We also have plenty of volunteers to help keep the home front informed by writing pieces for the ship's weblog. I think two pieces are written everyday, so those who stayed behind will know what we've been up to. If you didn't know yet, check the logbook on www.barkeuropa.com.
Later in the evening
No more sailing, unfortunately, we now hear the gentle drone of the engines. This afternoon we did our bit for science, the ship takes part in the "Aliens in Antarctica" project, trying to determine how many foreign plant species we transport into Antarctica in our clothes, bags and other equipment. We had to "vacuum" some of our guests, their bags and outdoor clothing, and keep all the material derived from that in plastic bags to send for examination in a lab. I wonder what the results of that will be. It was quite hard to find volunteers in the end, because it turned out that most people have bought new clothes for this trip...
15 January 2008 - Almnost there
After a few relatively quiet days the ship is moving about a bit today. This is the time to hold on to your cups and glasses and to make sure you always have a hand free for the ship. Not everybody is willing to do so yet, and some people are willing to battle the laws of nature, refusing to give in to the forces of the swell, the wind and gravity. Yes, it does take you five minutes to put on your pants, and there just isn't a lot you can do about it.
Today we tell the guests about the way to behave when we get to actually set foot on land again. Right now that still seems far away, but we have our first landing scheduled for tomorrow. Or, maybe more importantly, tomorrow we will all be able to have a shower again...
This has been a good crossing though, as we have been able to do a lot of proper sailing. Most of the sails are up, and we are making good speed for the South Shetland Islands. It is lovely and sunny now, which helps put people in a good mood.
16 January 2008 - Beautiful Barrientos
Our first landing and it couldn't have been much better. A beautiful blue sky, very little swell so a smooth ride to shore, and then just lots of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins, Elephant Seals, Sheathbills, Giant Petrels and Skuas. The magical landscape of Aitcho is different every time, the light is different every time, and the atmosphere is different every time. This time we had bright sunshine, but the land was still to a great extent covered in snow. That meant that for a great part of the walk we didn't have to worry about stepping on mosses. Or "moses", as German Thomas would have it. A wonderful start to this part of the trip.
Some people are happy for different reasons too. If you've been seasick in your cabin for a few days it is just lovely to wake up on a ship that is hardly moving at all, to feel hungry instead of sick, to be able to go and have breakfast
and actually eat.
17 January 2008 - Macaronis
After two days in the South Shetland Islands it on the one hand is still hard to believe I'm back here, on the other hand it is almost as if I've not been away. We landed on Hannah Point on Livingston Island today. A beautiful place, where many different birds nest. The one place out here where there is a good chance you get to meet up with a Macaroni Penguin, there always are a couple, and they were here today. At first they were just lying around, but then they started a little display which impressed the visitors. This also is the place where you can see both kinds of Antarctic plants, the Hairgrass and the Pearlwort. So as a guide you need to keep telling people to keep off the grass. As I got back on to the ship today, I was told to head for the other side of the ship to see a couple of Humpbacks swim past. What more do you want? You just grab the mulled wine that is ready on deck and enjoy the view.
Another beautiful sunny day today, just a little swell, which made for a bumpy ride in the zodiac back to the ship. Not too bad though, I didn't really get wet. So, just another beautiful day in the Antarctic, I guess.
18 January 2008 - Black and White
I am writing this sitting on board a ship which is anchored in the caldera of a volcano. We are in Deception Island, which really is just that, a volcano. This morning we walked in this black and white landscape, this afternoon was the chance to go swimming in the hot springs. It was a perfect day for it, a little windy and chilly, but there was a lot of hot water at just the right temperature. I had wanted to go this time round, but I have such a bad cold at the moment, I didn't want to take the risk. I cannot really afford to get sick. But I'm hoping to get another chance in three weeks time....
After a couple of bright, sunny days, today is a little more cold and grey. It kind of suits the place, the greys and the blacks. The clouds are low, touching the top of the caldera, creating a little mystery.
Later in the evening
Tonight we had a landing at Whalers Bay, one of the strangest places here. Great natural beauty, the black and white landscape has some brightly coloured patches in there. But this is also the place where many whales were slaughtered and cooked, and the remains of the whaling station are a reminder of that era. There always is a ghostly atmosphere here, empty, decaying buildings, falling apart. The only building still in reasonable shape is the airplane hangar, one of the last additions to the site. An eerie place, this Whalers Bay.
19 January 2008 - Icebergs
We are now close to the Peninsula, travelling ever further south. Today was our day for all the icebergs. The narrow passage between Trinity and Spert Islands works as a trap for icebergs, they all get stuck there. This provides us with a great opportunity for seeing some of them close up. We were our in the zodiacs cruising among them. You always need to be careful around icebergs, but you can still get reasonably close and study all the different shades of blue in them. And there are many.
Out here you can also get some nice close up views of the wildlife. Today we got to see a Fur Seal, some Weddells and a Leopard Seal, as well as a nice variety of birds.
Coming back from our second trip the fog had really come in and covered the ship. For a while we weren't sure where she was. We were heading in one direction, but when I turned my head I could just see the outline of the ship to the right. So a sharp turn and we headed home. We all had visions of the Flying Dutchman.
20 January 2008 - The White Ship
Well, we keep getting reminded that this is the real thing and not some amusement park. We had a good programme for today, a Zodiac tour in the morning and a landing in the afternoon. And then it got a little cold and it started to snow, so we are not making as much speed as we should. We skipped the zodiac tour in the morning and still hope to do the landing. We know it's pretty cold and wet now, not just by feeling it ourselves, but also by the fact that Mike, the tough sailor, was out on deck in full sailing gear and wearing a jacket this morning, rather than just a t-shirt. Like he was last night.
Instead of the zodiac tour we have a beautiful white ship, snow that rests on the surface of the water, and a big snowball fight on deck. And the guests get a proper sense of what it is to be out here in the Antarctic. It always is good to think about the first men that came down here. They did not have such a comfortable ship, none of our modern conveniences, none of our sophisticated clothing, but they still managed out here. The explorers from the heroic age didn't come down here for three weeks but for a year or more, living through not just the summer, but through the winter with its cold and darkness. That is a different story altogether.
Evening
We've landed at Cuverville, another lovely spot. For me, this is the place to just sit on the beach for a while and watch the penguins get in and out of the water. The sea is very clear here, so you can see them approaching from quite far away, coming in very fast, sometimes looking up out of the water to see where landing is safe, and then hop on to the beach. Tonight there was a small iceberg just in front of the beach, a good resting place for penguins. They were hopping on and off, pushing each other off, it was an interesting performance, very funny at times.
One of the guests had brought along a small, pooping, plastic penguin, which he put on a piece of ice in the water, hoping for a real penguin to notice it. He got more than he bargained for. A penguin jumped up on the ice and started to examine the intruder. It made for a nice photo, a good entry for the photo competition.
21 January 2008 - The Continent
There is some debate about what constitutes the continent around here. My fellow-guide Dan tells me that a landing at Neko Harbour is a sure step on the continent, there are some doubts about Almirante Brown or Gonzalez Videla, other possibilities. So, depending on what is correct, I might have set foot on the continent for the first time today. Otherwise, that happened two years ago. It doesn't matter all that much to me.
Neko Harbour is a lovely place though. Another lovely beach where you can sit down and watch the penguins arrive, and where you have Wilson's Storm Petrels flying over low. And where people can slide down in the snow. I didn't do that today, though I did go sliding down at Almirante Brown. And I enjoyed that. We were just a small group in the evening, which made it unusual. And before sliding down we had a few minutes silence up on the mountain, just looking out over this unbelievable landscape.
Back at the ship we were visited by a regular, a skua that lives round here and always pays a courtesy visit to ships anchored here. It sits on board the ship for a while, changing landing spots once in a while, and examines life on board. This must be one of the most photograped skuas on the peninsula.
I am writing this late in the evening, our ship anchored in Paradise Bay. It was given this name by men a long time ago, tough men, who thought this the most beautiful place on earth. I understand them, this is a lovely place, and I will sleep well here tonight.
22 January 2008 - Furthest South
When I think of the words " Furthest South" I really think about Antarctic history. Until Roald Amundsen reached the south pole the record for Furthest South was set and improved on several times. Shackleton held it for a while, Scott did (he was in the company of Shackleton and Wilson). It all started with Cook, I guess, and the list includes names like James Clark Ross, James Weddell and Borchgrevink. Now it'll stay Amundsens.
Our furthest south is nowhere near as far, we will only go as far as 65°15'S, still quite a way from the pole. And even still above the Pole Circle. But we still think our reaching this place is worth a party. First we have the barbecue, then a few people start to dance, but they are enthusiastic enough to get everybody going. Some Ukrainians from the nearby research station join in the fun, and one of them is up on deck, dancing in this t-shirt for most of the evening. One of the Spanish girls ends up belly-dancing, one of the Spanish guys plays the mock trumpet, a cowboy hat and silver jacket. In the end even the ones who refuse to dance at first give in. It's a lovely sight.
23 January 2008 - Rain
I can't remember a previous trip with this much rain. Another foggy and rainy day, and we don't get to see the Lemaire Channel at all. Today we landed at Petermann Island, home to the Adelie penguins, and got very wet. People were quite happy though, seeing these beautiful small penguins, but they were also very happy to get some hot chocolate once back on the ship. And they were equally happy going out on deck again a little later to watch four Humpback whales pass by.
24 January 2008 - Shopping
Finally, a sunny and dry day. So what do we do? We go shopping! There is one souvenir shop and post office on our route, and we visited that today. It is a lovely place though, on a tiny island which houses some 600 Gentoo penguins and a fairly large community of Sheathbills. The shop is in a former British base, now a museum, full of items from the fifties. For some people nostalgia all the way. The shop sells postcards, t-shirts and penguin items, as well as the Antarctic tartan. One of the joys of being in this place are the people. Rick has been at Port Lockroy for a long time, working there in the summer, and he has great stories to tell. He also is a very nice person and I always look forward to seeing him again. He has different assistents every year, but they always are nice people. That is probably a condition for getting the job.
This morning we had a lovely walk up at Jougla Point. First a wander round the Gentoo colony, and then on up the hill for a bit of exercise. The weather was lovely, so at the end we all just sat on the beach for a while, enjoying the warmth and the sunshine. Life can be pretty good down here.
It's hard to imagine, being here again, that within 48 hours we will be heading north again and will be on the Drake Passage. Walking among the penguins always is a strange experience at first, but after a couple of weeks it seems only natural and it is hard to remember to keep your distance. I keep having to remind people, but I do understand.
25 January 2008 - More Rain
The last landing today, but only 16 people dared brave the elements, the wind and the rain. Those who did came back soaking wet but happy. Everyone else was quite happy on the ship. People are sorting out pictures for the photo competition and for the crew, and we showed some films on recent British Antarctic history. I enjoyed those, especially because I saw some familiar faces in there.
26 January 2008 - Goodbye
Yesterday morning our last zodiac tour round the Melchior Islands. Here you can take your zodiac into narrow channels between islands, see some seals and enjoy the colours of the snow and the ice. We started the first tour with sunshine and a bright blue sky. A little later on the fog moved in and it got grey again. Two of the small boats decided to go round the outside back to the ship. That meant quite a long ride back with some swell and in the fog. We got back to the ship a little late and a little cold, so I couldn't really go on the second run.
Time for a nice hot shower though, and a little rest before we set out towards the Drake Passage again. Now we are out on the open sea again, the watch system is running and people are busy at the wheel and on lookout. There also is time to just stand out on deck and watch the birds, when they are around. This morning that was limited to Cape Pigeons and the odd Black-browed albatross. But everyone is still hoping for a few more whales.
28 January 2008 - Drake
We are almost halfway back to Ushuaia, we will be at the Beagle Channel in a couple more days. That is the time people will reappear from cabins, the ones who have remained on watch will finally be able to have a shower again, and mobile phones will start to ring. Back to civilization. I always have mixed feelings about that. I like it, different faces, another landscape, ice-cream at Gadget, but I will also miss the isolation of the ship, of being part of a world that is so much smaller and simpler. No news, we haven't heard much of what has been happening in the world outside. It will be nice to get back in touch with the people I care about, to hear how they are, and to share something of my experiences. I know that I will be part of civilization for just a few days, and then my next voyage starts. Another three weeks in a small world.
29 January - Drake Again
We are still on the Drake, and will be for another 24 hours or so. The ship has been tilted in one direction for most of the crossing, so everything that isn't fastened to something heads in that direction automatically. It's hard to hold on to doors and other things, and you need constantly be aware of your movements, often timing them to the waves.
We will probably be in the Beagle tomorrow night, hopefully enjoying some calmer sailing, though I heard there will be a lot of wind. Some people I haven't really seen since the start of the crossing, they will probably start to surface tomorrow evening.
We held another photo competition on this trip, and got over 20 entries to the various categories, some 100 pictures altogether. We just had a showing of all of them in the lounge, and this gave a very nice overview of the trip. Some beautiful landscapes, lovely pictures of the ship, interesting pictures of the people and the wildlife. A slide show, created by some 20 people, creating a beautiful picture. We haven't had all that much sunshine, and that has resulted in eerie pictures of the ship in the fog, a little unsettling.
30 January - Almost
Almost home now, this time tomorrow we may have Ushuaia in sight. I think for quite a few people that will be a good thing, since the ship has been moving about a lot today. Some will miss the sailing and the routine on board the ship, others will be very happy to feel firm ground under their feet.
Today some of the people who have been doing well so far are seasick. I spent a couple of hours in bed this morning, and I just heard the captain isn't feeling too well at the moment. He isn't on watch now, and I hope he feels better by the evening.
The return journey is always so different from the outward journey for many reasons. On the way down people are full of expectation of things to come, we have lectures to tell people about all they will see, we are heading to where we want to go. On the way back people enjoy the sailing, if we can sail, but some would just like to go home and get this long crossing over with.
1 February - Back in Ushuaia
Well, we're back, so I can post this. Soon more, I hope.
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
Furniture
I was at an exhibition about a Dutch 19th century architect. He was called Cuypers and he designed the Amsterdam Central Station, the Rijksmuseum, and a lot of churches. This exhibition was mainly about the restoration of a castle. There were a couple of nice models, some interesting furniture, and a lot of drawings. The thing I liked best was a design for one of the bedrooms in the castle. It struck a chord. I used to have furniture just like it for my dolls....
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
The Days Before...
Cycling home from work it feels like the days before Sinterklaas again. I don't know exactly what it is, I guess it is a combination of the winter temperatures, the chill in the air, the trees that have shed all their leaves, the grey skies and the darkness falling early.
This is the time of year when you close the curtains before you have dinner, when you sometimes actually have the heating on. Though not too long, of course. When you end your evening with very cold feet and spend the first half hour in bed trying to get them warm again.
I watched Sinterklaas sail past on the Spaarne last Sunday, followed on the quayside by a huge crowd of children and adults, and a lot of Zwarte Pieten handing out sweets. I guess that is part of the association for me. And it is the kruidnootjes I can smell right now.
This is the time of year when you close the curtains before you have dinner, when you sometimes actually have the heating on. Though not too long, of course. When you end your evening with very cold feet and spend the first half hour in bed trying to get them warm again.
I watched Sinterklaas sail past on the Spaarne last Sunday, followed on the quayside by a huge crowd of children and adults, and a lot of Zwarte Pieten handing out sweets. I guess that is part of the association for me. And it is the kruidnootjes I can smell right now.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Painted Birds
I was in Haarlem for the Audubon exhibition at Teylers Museum. All about art and birds. It isn't a very big exhibition, just one room, but plenty of interesting things to see there. Audubon wanted to paint all the American birds and publish them in a book. He did, the book turned into several volumes and is huge. I mean huge. The original volumes are in glass cases, and they are opened on different pages every day. On the museums website you can check which birds you can see on which day. A nice idea. And, of course, you can flick through the books on a computer so you can see all of the pictures. And then there are all the other bird books and guides you can see, you can follow the development. THe final case has the bird guides I have at home. Fortunately slightly smaller than Audubon's work, and easier to carry with you.
Teylers Museum is a lovely museum quite apart from the birds. Its collection is a strange mix, some fossils, a room full of old scientific equipment, a big, beautiful room with minerals and rocks, a couple of rooms with paintings. The museum basically houses the collection of an 18th century merchant and financier who had a great belief in knowledge and science. The collection does have that sense of the personal about it, it seems a random collection, but I can imagine one person putting it all together. And then keeping it all in such a beautiful building.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
On the Wings
of the Albatross is a story in the December edition of National Geographic. Their website carries the story and has some film footage.
National Geographic
National Geographic
Antarctic Mail
Today I got an email from the Antarctic. Someone I met recently is down there to do some work in the Dry Valleys, that part of the Antarctic which is not white, not covered with ice. The atmosphere is extremely dry there, hence the name, and as far as I know it is a place unlike any other in the world.
I knew he would be celebrating his birthday down there, so I sent him an email, not expecting a reply soon. But I underestimated modern technology, and I did get a reply almost straightaway. I'm used to being on a ship with limited email-access, he works from a modern US research station. It still feels a little odd though, to have someone tell you he just celebrated his birthday in the Discovery Hut and spent his day at work in the Dry Valleys. I'll never be able to do that, celebrating my birthday in the Antarctic winter...
I knew he would be celebrating his birthday down there, so I sent him an email, not expecting a reply soon. But I underestimated modern technology, and I did get a reply almost straightaway. I'm used to being on a ship with limited email-access, he works from a modern US research station. It still feels a little odd though, to have someone tell you he just celebrated his birthday in the Discovery Hut and spent his day at work in the Dry Valleys. I'll never be able to do that, celebrating my birthday in the Antarctic winter...
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Music. Again.
Two concert nights in a row, very different evenings. Thursday night I was at Studio K in the East of the city. A fairly new centre, a kind of small Paradiso, where three bands performed. I was there mainly because of the last act on the bill, the Brunettes from New Zealand. I liked their performance and their music, but I'm not too sure about the other two bands.
It felt a little like an alien environment to me. The bands were all new, small bands, attracting a different audience of very trendy young people. Spiky hair, big horn-rimmed glasses, very tight trousers and checked shirts. You could quite easily pick out the trendy from the non-trendy. No points for guessing where I was in all that. I actually sat on the balcony, looking down on the people standing in front of the stage. I quite enjoyed seeing the social goings on. Everybody seemed to know everybody else. I felt very much an observer, researching the habits of modern big city youth culture. Quite funny, really.
Then tonight I went to a small venue very close to my own home, one I didn't even know existed, to hear a Frisian band called Souldada play Mediterranean and South American music. Only some 15 people turned up, but the atmosphere was good. A grown up band and a grown up audience this time. I was much more part of the audience, sitting close to the stage, listening to the music rather than observing the whole scene. I liked the music and the performance.
It felt a little like an alien environment to me. The bands were all new, small bands, attracting a different audience of very trendy young people. Spiky hair, big horn-rimmed glasses, very tight trousers and checked shirts. You could quite easily pick out the trendy from the non-trendy. No points for guessing where I was in all that. I actually sat on the balcony, looking down on the people standing in front of the stage. I quite enjoyed seeing the social goings on. Everybody seemed to know everybody else. I felt very much an observer, researching the habits of modern big city youth culture. Quite funny, really.
Then tonight I went to a small venue very close to my own home, one I didn't even know existed, to hear a Frisian band called Souldada play Mediterranean and South American music. Only some 15 people turned up, but the atmosphere was good. A grown up band and a grown up audience this time. I was much more part of the audience, sitting close to the stage, listening to the music rather than observing the whole scene. I liked the music and the performance.
Ouch
I went and had my company physical last week. I was declared fit and healthy, all the tests went well, and my marks were good. The only thing is, I had to take a step test, stepping on and off quite a high step at quite a fast rate, and I lost my footing a couple of times. So since I had my physical my right calf muscle has been giving me some problems. That can't really be the idea, can it?
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Sailors
I was at a meeting of sailors last night. Tough people, sailing their small ships along the coast or around the world. At dinner I sat next to an elderly gentleman who had sailed round the world, and he told me something about his trip, crossing the Atlantic three times altoghether. Another man sails singlehandedly down to the mediterranean and back, a woman regularly sails up to Sweden.
I'm not really much of a sailor myself, if I'm honest. Yes, I've crossed the Drake Passage more than once, and yes, I've crossed the Atlantic ocean, but I'm still not much of a sailor. I wasn't on such a tiny yacht, but I WAS on a sailing ship, a square rigged bark, a tall ship. I like the ship I work on, she's a beautiful ship, and that she's square rigged is unusual and looks very romantic.
I still don't know much about sailing, though, as I realised again last night. When the captain of my ship started talking about sailing manoeuvres. I sort of know, but I don't really. I know some of the terms, but am never sure what they really mean. I know there's sails involved, and a lot of ropes, and sometimes I pull on ropes, and I know more or less which sail is which, but that's it really.
The evening before my night out with the sailors I was at a Film Festival, the Northern Film Festival, a different kind of atmosphere and a very different group of people, different topics of conversation. Another world, just like the world on board ship is a another world.
I'm not really much of a sailor myself, if I'm honest. Yes, I've crossed the Drake Passage more than once, and yes, I've crossed the Atlantic ocean, but I'm still not much of a sailor. I wasn't on such a tiny yacht, but I WAS on a sailing ship, a square rigged bark, a tall ship. I like the ship I work on, she's a beautiful ship, and that she's square rigged is unusual and looks very romantic.
I still don't know much about sailing, though, as I realised again last night. When the captain of my ship started talking about sailing manoeuvres. I sort of know, but I don't really. I know some of the terms, but am never sure what they really mean. I know there's sails involved, and a lot of ropes, and sometimes I pull on ropes, and I know more or less which sail is which, but that's it really.
The evening before my night out with the sailors I was at a Film Festival, the Northern Film Festival, a different kind of atmosphere and a very different group of people, different topics of conversation. Another world, just like the world on board ship is a another world.
Friday, November 09, 2007
Polar Research
The Scott Polar Research Institute is based in Cambridge, and it is a fascinating place for anyone interested in Antarctic history. One part of the institute is the museum, for me the place to find many mementos of the Scott expeditions. There are cases containing items that belonged to Scott, to Edward Wilson and to other members of their journey to the South Pole. Final letters they wrote, Wilson's drawing materials, Birdie Bowers' copy of the New Testament. Impressive and moving. It makes history come alive, and it is weird to think that some of these items were taken from the tent where Scott and his companions died.
Almost even more impressive is the library in the institute. They seem to have almost every book ever published on Polar science, history, exploration, flora and fauna. It is quite overwhelming. I had a look at some of the books I had heard about, but which I had never seen. I had a good look at the biography of Birdie Bowers. I also looked at some of the volumes of the report on the Discovery expedition. When I opened the volume with photographs on the title page was Edward Wilson's signature! It must have been his own copy.
Visiting this place for the first time is a little overwhelming. There is a whole shelf of books devoted to Tristan da Cunha, something you are not likely to find in many other places. And this includes the books written by Dutch authors. All the books on the explorers seem to be there too. I guess next time I need to take a lot more time than just a day.
Around the time I was at the Scott Institue I also visited that other research institute, the British Antarctic Survey. They are responsible for carrying out research out on the continent these days. A big office building just outside Cambridge, with scientists and support staff. This is modern day science in the Antarctic, no long treks on ships, no two-year expeditions, but modern bases, planes and modern research methods. Most scientists just work on the continent in the Southern summer, you don't necessarily have to winter there anymore. I saw the model for the new Halley station, which looks like something out of a science fiction film, wonderful. Polar research has come a long way in 100 years.
Thursday, November 08, 2007
B.E.
Did I ever mention Bright Eyes are a brilliant band? Listening to Cassadaga again I just couldn't help noticing. Fabchannel.com still has some earlier live shows available on line, which are fascinating. Too bad they didn't record the Amsterdam concert last July.
I'm still not sure what it is I like so much, or what appeals to me so much. It is Conor's voice, the music and the arrangements, and the lyrics. The man seems to have produced so much music in just a few years and there just are some real gems in there. It just seems to work together perfectly.
I'm still not sure what it is I like so much, or what appeals to me so much. It is Conor's voice, the music and the arrangements, and the lyrics. The man seems to have produced so much music in just a few years and there just are some real gems in there. It just seems to work together perfectly.
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Shackleton
Thinking of early 20th century Antarctic exploration I always think of Scott and Wilson first, I guess I like them for various reasons. Just lately I've been catching up on my Shackleton. I watched the series that was made on his Transantarctic expedition a few years ago. Kenneth Branagh played the title role, and he did that very well. He managed to catch the passion, the compassion and the determination of the man, as well as his charm. I know it was a dramatisation, and in places it didn't look very realistic, but it did give some sense of the human side of the whole expedition.
I also recently watched Scott of the Antarctic, and this series had some of the same features. In some scenes of the film you could clearly recognise Ponting's pictures, in the case of the Shackleton series the images of Hurley came out in some of the shots of the series. They must have been a source of inspiration and information for the makers of the series.
I did feel that much stress was placed on the preparation, and Shackleton's various affairs on land, and the final journey was dealt with relatively quickly. There were few images of the men living on Elephant Island, but I guess spending too much time dealing with that would be a little monotonous maybe. And it all seemed very clean. When the real Shackleton reached the Whaling station at Stromness he wasn't recognised by the Station Master, but the man reaching the Station in the series was easily recognisable as the man who'd started out on this ambitious expedition.
Another funny thing was the role of the Royal Geographic Society. They were asked for funds for the expedition but didn't provide much. When asked to help set up a rescue expedition they weren't very keen either. So I wonder what Shackleton would think of his statue adorning the current quarters of the Society.
When I was on South Georgia I visited Shackleton's grave. A simple grave amongst the whalers, but it does seem the right place for him to be. South Georgia is one of the most beautiful places in the world for me, a perfect last resting place.
Sunday, November 04, 2007
Surprises
When you wander around London you can have some unexpected encounters. Only a few minutes after encountering Dutch royalty wandering round the street, I was suddenly almost face to face with one of the great Antarctic heroes. Well, I would have been if I'd been twice as tall, now I was literally looking up to Ernest Shackleton in full Antarctic gear. Impressive...
I've been reading about Shackleton again, or rather reading about the part of the Trans-Antarctic Expedition that he was not immediately part of. While he was dealing with his own little problems in the Weddell Sea there was another, smaller, party working for him on the other side of the continent, laying depots of food and fuel for his team. They ran into a lot of problems of their own, but still continued their work, not wanting to let the boss down. An amazing story, but unfortunately the outcome wasn't quite as good as that of Shackleton's own party. Not all members of the party on the other side survived.
I've also been watching the adaptation of the story of the main expedition for television, with Kenneth Branagh playing Shackleton. I'm halfway through now, and it's interesting. I'll get back to this one when I've seen all of the series.
I've been reading about Shackleton again, or rather reading about the part of the Trans-Antarctic Expedition that he was not immediately part of. While he was dealing with his own little problems in the Weddell Sea there was another, smaller, party working for him on the other side of the continent, laying depots of food and fuel for his team. They ran into a lot of problems of their own, but still continued their work, not wanting to let the boss down. An amazing story, but unfortunately the outcome wasn't quite as good as that of Shackleton's own party. Not all members of the party on the other side survived.
I've also been watching the adaptation of the story of the main expedition for television, with Kenneth Branagh playing Shackleton. I'm halfway through now, and it's interesting. I'll get back to this one when I've seen all of the series.
Saturday, November 03, 2007
Mechelen
I was in Mechelen to see a concert at the Stadsschouwburg. Maybe not the most obvious place for me to attend a concert, but that is just the way it worked out. What I didn't know was that 1 November is a national holiday in Belgium and that meant that all the shops and museums and many of the restaurants were closed. It was a pretty grey day anyway, so it turned into a slightly depressing day, just wandering round the almost deserted centre of Mechelen.
The thing that did make it all worthwhile in the end was the concert. It was An Pierlé I had come to see, and I have seen her a few times before, or quite a few, but this was a slightly different concert again. After the tour built very much around the new album, "White Velvet" last year, she now played a mix of songs from that album, from earlier albums, and some new songs.
She wore a shiny white dress with lots of sparkles this time, very stylish and very An. The set-up on stage a little different than before, Peter not way in the back with a full set of drums but more to the front. And An had a proper grand piano. And there was a little more room for the cello again.
A few new songs I hadn't heard before, and some old ones I hadn't heard live before either, like "Tower", which is a great song. She also sang "Build a Better Life", and was accompanied by Peter on high chair and ergonomic sitting ball, a new style of percussion that worked well.
The theatre was quite posh, a real old-fashioned theatre, and the audience didn't seem like An's regular audience. The set was relatively quiet, maybe because of that. The hall wasn't very big, which did create an intimate atmosphere, and also made it a slightly different concert.
I spent a short while in the theatre in the afternoon too, when the band was rehearsing. An empty theatre, just the musicians and technicians, testing the light and the sound. A different atmosphere again. Nice to hear some of the songs in such a different setting altogether.
Monday, October 29, 2007
Teaching
Once or twice a year I teach a short course on Dutch urban planning legislation. Not the easiest of subjects generally. A lot of rules and regulations, and it seems to get more complicated every year. Today was my turn to teach again, and I had to present the basic principles in about three hours to a class of 14 people. The people taking part are all in some way involved in urban planning, some know a lot already, and some know next to nothing. Every time I teach this course it is different. Sometimes I have just four or five people and I get into detailed discussions on various specific aspects, that people have come across in the course of their work and about which they already know a lot.
Today I had a big group consisting mainly of people who are just starting out, and I spent most of the morning explaining the basics, several times. The questions kept coming from all over the place, and they were not always the kind of questions you might expect. By the end I was completely worn out.....
Today I had a big group consisting mainly of people who are just starting out, and I spent most of the morning explaining the basics, several times. The questions kept coming from all over the place, and they were not always the kind of questions you might expect. By the end I was completely worn out.....
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Sunday and Small Corners
Some Sundays you just don't get round to doing much of anything. You write some emails, you tidy up all the stuff that has been collecting in different places in your room over the week, you listen to the radio. Jeremy Hardy was comedy controller on BBC7 today, and he played the Hancock episode about Hancock and his companions being bored stiff on a Sunday afternoon. There is some great comedy around. I very much like Jeremy Hardy anyway, and I like his choice of comedy. And Hancock did make some great programs, not without the help of Galton and Simpson, of course. But I digress.
In the end I went for a long walk to the other side of town, to Diemen, because that was where I had to be this evening. The weather was lovely, slightly chilly autumn weather. Along the way I took pictures of houses I really like, details of statues. I would normally be on a bike covering this distance, but walking all the way you see so much more. A tiny park next to a bridge with a row of statues of children, details in the architecture of certain buildings, a tree growing almost into a house. This isn't the centre of town, the part usually visted by tourists, but just outside. A good place for experimenting with a new camera. There is some very nice variety in architecture, and often when I cycle here I look at these houses. Not bad at all.
In the end I went for a long walk to the other side of town, to Diemen, because that was where I had to be this evening. The weather was lovely, slightly chilly autumn weather. Along the way I took pictures of houses I really like, details of statues. I would normally be on a bike covering this distance, but walking all the way you see so much more. A tiny park next to a bridge with a row of statues of children, details in the architecture of certain buildings, a tree growing almost into a house. This isn't the centre of town, the part usually visted by tourists, but just outside. A good place for experimenting with a new camera. There is some very nice variety in architecture, and often when I cycle here I look at these houses. Not bad at all.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Alan Coren
Long ago, in a previous life, I was a great fan of the News Quiz. I could listen to various episodes over and over again. This was the time of Richard Ingrams, Alan Coren and Ian Hislop. I loved the Way Alan Coren could just take off and tell one his wonderful stories. He had a great sense of humour, and I would laugh out loud regularly. I've rediscovered the programme, some new players, still a great many laughs, but no Alan Coren.
Last week Alan Coren died, and his News Quiz colleagues paid tribute to him this weekend. A lot of Coren stories could be heard again, and it made me realize just how funny he could be, and just how unique his way of telling a story was. He just seemed to be taking off without going anywhere in particular, but at the same time he always seemed to end up exactly where he wanted to be. And it still had me laugh out loud. So he will be missed by me too.
Last week Alan Coren died, and his News Quiz colleagues paid tribute to him this weekend. A lot of Coren stories could be heard again, and it made me realize just how funny he could be, and just how unique his way of telling a story was. He just seemed to be taking off without going anywhere in particular, but at the same time he always seemed to end up exactly where he wanted to be. And it still had me laugh out loud. So he will be missed by me too.
Monday, October 22, 2007
A Chill in the Air
Well, this morning it was time for gloves and a scarf again. They say temperatures went below zero last night. And the maximum for today should be about seven. So I guess we're heading for winter again...
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Luka in Paradise
Well, I went to see Luka again, this time in Paradiso in Amsterdam. Known locally as the temple of pop. It was once a church, and that is still very obvious when you're inside. The stage set as always, guitars, flowers, Luka seated again. The first half of the concert he used the Spanish guitar, the second half it was Rudy's turn.
He played a lot of new songs, some written about a year ago, some written during his recent German tour. And he sang a lot of old favourites, some unexpectedly. The second song of the evening was one of my favourites, about the uprising in Tibet, called "As I Waved Goodbye". I first heard this song shortly after it was written, when I first saw Luka in concert in Utrecht. At the time he still had the sruti box for accompaniment, which made it special. Then came the version on the album "Between the Mountain and the Moon", and now the accompaniment is on the guitar. He played a lively version yesterday, which I liked very much. And a beautiful "City of Chicago", a hard subject to sing about but it just is such a beautiful song. And good to know that both Christy and Luka sing that one.
He played a lot of old favourites. I was happy to hear "Exploring the Blue", still one of the most beautiful songs he's written. Two surprises were "Chiara" and "The Fertile Rock". He mentioned not having done "The Fertile Rock" for a while, which I knew, so I was surprised to hear him play that one. And "Chiara" is an old favourite, for the name, for the story behind it, for the lyrics and the passion.
He also did the songs that will always make me happy, the ones that make it hard for you to stay in your seat. One is "You Couldn't Have Come at at Better Time", the other one "Perfect Groove". He ended this one the way he ended the concert earlier in the year in the Amstelkerk with "Wave Up to the Shore", no accompaniment and no amplification. A lovely way to end a concert in a, former, church.
For every favourite I heard there was one missing, but that is simply because there are so many songs that I love. I can understand why there was no "Delirious", I would have loved to hear "Black is the Colour". The elusive one for me is "Don't Be Afraid of the Light That Shines Within You", but that one I certainly didn't really expect. It was good to see him again.
He played a lot of new songs, some written about a year ago, some written during his recent German tour. And he sang a lot of old favourites, some unexpectedly. The second song of the evening was one of my favourites, about the uprising in Tibet, called "As I Waved Goodbye". I first heard this song shortly after it was written, when I first saw Luka in concert in Utrecht. At the time he still had the sruti box for accompaniment, which made it special. Then came the version on the album "Between the Mountain and the Moon", and now the accompaniment is on the guitar. He played a lively version yesterday, which I liked very much. And a beautiful "City of Chicago", a hard subject to sing about but it just is such a beautiful song. And good to know that both Christy and Luka sing that one.
He played a lot of old favourites. I was happy to hear "Exploring the Blue", still one of the most beautiful songs he's written. Two surprises were "Chiara" and "The Fertile Rock". He mentioned not having done "The Fertile Rock" for a while, which I knew, so I was surprised to hear him play that one. And "Chiara" is an old favourite, for the name, for the story behind it, for the lyrics and the passion.
He also did the songs that will always make me happy, the ones that make it hard for you to stay in your seat. One is "You Couldn't Have Come at at Better Time", the other one "Perfect Groove". He ended this one the way he ended the concert earlier in the year in the Amstelkerk with "Wave Up to the Shore", no accompaniment and no amplification. A lovely way to end a concert in a, former, church.
For every favourite I heard there was one missing, but that is simply because there are so many songs that I love. I can understand why there was no "Delirious", I would have loved to hear "Black is the Colour". The elusive one for me is "Don't Be Afraid of the Light That Shines Within You", but that one I certainly didn't really expect. It was good to see him again.
Saturday, October 20, 2007
The London Stage
Alex Jennings is appearing at the National Theatre at the moment, playing the lead in "Present Laughter", Garry Essendine. He is brilliant, of course. The play was written by Noel Coward and is a sophisticated comedy. The reviews are mixed, about the play, but the critics agree with my opinion of Alex's performance. His timing is perfect, he's very funny and great for the part. He worked very well with Sarah Woodward, playing Monica, his secretary. Her dry, understated comments worked very well.
I went to see hello to Alex after the performance, but my timing wasn't quite right. Falling down the stairs meant that Alex had hurt his foot and had to limp to his taxi. I didn't want to take up any of his time, but he came over to talk to me, and he was very nice.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Wilson in Cambridge
Edward Wilson was a student in Cambridge in the 1890s, he was at Gonville and Caius college. So when I went to Cambridge I had to go and see where he lived. The entrance to the college isn't as obvious as that to some of the others, and that says a little about the college. It seems a little smaller, and certainly more intimate... I liked the atmosphere in the courts very much, the intimacy and the trees and the flowers.
I knew Wilson had a room over the gate, I just couldn't remember which gate. or rather I didn't really know there was more than one. When I went to ask at the Porter's Lodge they couldn't really help me, but one of the porters said he would try to find out while I wandered round the college. I walked through the second gate to visit the chapel. That turned out to be small and intimate as well. Knowing about his strong faith I am convinced that Wilson must have spent much time here as well.
Walking back from the chapel I could see the porter coming towards me. He'd been checking his history of the college for Edward Wilson and had found his name, but not which room he'd been in. As I was on my way to the Scott Polar Research Institute I promised to check out where the rooms were. I did, and found the reference in Wilson's biography "Cheltenham in Antarctica".
Later in the afternoon I went back to the college to talk to the porter again, and as I walked into the porter's lodge he was very happy to tell me he'd found out exactly which rooms were Wilson's by talking to the man who wrote a book on the history of Caius, professor Christopher Brooke! We had come up with the same information! Wilson lived over the Gate of Virtue, right in the centre of the college, next to the Chapel.
Wilson made a drawing of the Gate from the other side:
Then the porter really surprised me by asking me if I wanted to have a look at the rooms.... He got on the phone to the present occupant, and she agreed to let me see the rooms. So I went up there, along a very old spiralling staircase, and was admitted to the rooms. There is an inscription over the fireplace, stating that Edward Wilson lived there from 1892 to 1895. The fellow who now lives there also let me climb up to the roof to enjoy the view from the top of the gate. A very lovely private balcony. I had only expected to be able to see the rooms from the outside, and to be given the chance to have a proper look at them was very special. I am very grateful to the friendly people at Gonville and Caius College.
I didn't have my camera with me, so I couldn't take a picture, but I did find this one of the room at the time when Wilson lived here:
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Falling in Love
I sort of fell in love with Cambridge when I was there. It is a beautiful city, with a lot of different environments. The areas around the centre have their terraced houses, the centre has its shopping streets and colleges, and there are tourists and students everywhere.
One of the things that really struck me were the bicycles everywhere. Almost as many as we have here, but mainly of a different kind. More helmets, nowhere to place your bag. And they really are all over the place. Cyclists in Amsterdam may create chaos, it's a different kind of chaos in Cambridge. Here cyclists have their own lanes, and very few use pavements or footpaths, but that is different in Cambridge, bicycles are everywhere. At some point I felt the way some tourists must feel in Amsterdam, you feel like you're always in the way of a cyclist. And they come from the wrong side too...
It's the colleges that provide a kind of peace and quiet within the city. The green, wide open space at King's COllege, the intimacy at Gonville and Caius, the silence within Magdalen early in the morning. Most of the colleges have their own chapel, really good places for a little peace. I ended up attending evensong at the King's College Chapel, beautifully sung and very restful.
There are a lot of interesting small restaurants as well, and you don't end up going to all the usual places. Some are to a great extent aimed at tourists, but it doesn't really feel that way. Not a bad place for a vegetarian.
And then there is the range of museums. Art at the huge Fitzwilliam, fossils at the Sedgwick, Polar history at the Scott Polar Research Institute, and there were a lot more I simply didn't have time for. This is the kind of city where three days isn't really enough and you wish you had a lot more time to take things in. I guess I have a few reasons for going back.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Seabirds?
I was out on a boat to see the seabirds. I've had to revise the definition of seabirds though, as the ship was visited by a lot of tiny seabirds. I had one climbing up my trousers, and one landing on my wrist just as I had my arm close to my face to take a picture of other birds just a little further away. My telelens wasn't much use really for much of the time. Though I did get a few nice pictures. Of the Goldcrests...
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